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Hello guys, I was wondering if I could get a little help...

Some months ago I bought two LED PAR64 from ebay and they said it had DMX Interface.
It can from China, actually. Now, a week ago, I bought an Enttec Open DMX Interface from
Thomann and I also bought a 5-to-3-pin XLR cable. It all arrived today, so I installed Freestyler
but I couldn't get anything to work.

Up until now, I've only used the two LED PAR64 with their built-in microphones, but now I want
to take the next step in stage lighting. I tested it connecting only one of the LED PAR64 directly
to the interface but it is not responsive. I read somewhere that I need a Terminator cable. I can
make one easily, with these schematics: http://www.blue-room.org.uk/wiki/DMX_Terminator

but, is it only this? Since it came from China, it also doesn't have any branding whatsoever... this
could be it, but it should be compatible with DMX512 (since it said so). There are dip switches on
the back but the only effect I've seen from them is changing colors and flashing modes.

About freestyler, I chose various PAR64 fixtures but none of them worked. I also put the dip switches
at it said on the image. I don't know what I could be doing wrong...

Just one small question... when you change the color on the fixture, should the effect be immediate??

Thank you very much,

Tiago

Hi Tiago.

maybe you has to change the polarity to get your par cans to work.

try to look on the table on this site: http://www.thedmxwiki.com/definitions/dmx_cables

before you change any cabling tru to add 10 par cans in FS,, and turn them all on (channel 1-10 @ 255), set your par cans to address 1 and connect them to your computer. if there is any connection you should get some light.... also be aware that you have connected the enttec open interface correctly and use the right driver and so on.. maybe you have any other fixtures you could try?

Dear LJ,

Thanks a lot for replying.

Well I think that about installation and drivers, everything is done correctly, since Freestyler correctly
detects the DMX Interface.

Unfortunately, I don't have any more fixtures I can try I'll look into the polarity issue, but I hope that's
not the problem, because it would be a bit troublesome. Maybe I should get a tester and the terminator
first :/

Thanks a lot!

a tester and/or terminator wont fix the problem, if the par cans don't follow the dmx512 standard regarding polarities in the XLR plug.. when you only have a few fixtures on a daisy chain which is not to long a terminator is really not necessary, but in theory you should always use one, just in case... I really doubt it is the missing terminator which causes your issue

Terminators you do not realy have to use in most cases. But perhaps you have got on of this cases where you have to....

There are some varius things that could be wrong. First of all, the fixtere has be in DMX mode to react to FS commands. Then the commands has to be send on channels the fixture is set to. Therefor you have to set the dip switches to the first channel your fixture is addressed to in FS. You also have to use the right fixture file. Some of the LED par uses channel 1-3 for RGB and 4 as a mode channel (or what else), some use channel 1 as mode and 2-4 as RGB...

You told, changing dip-swiches leads to changing colors? Sounds for me that the fixture is not in DMX mode. I work with LED par too. And exactly what you discribe is the behavoir of mine, if DMX mode is not enabled. Perhaps you have to switch a specific dip to on (or off) to enable this mode?

If you could send a link (or upload) the manual we can help you in a more specific way what to setup.

Hello guys!

Thanks a lot for trying to help me, I deeply apreciate it.

When I bought the two LED PAR cans they did come with a manual, but unfortunately
I misplaced it, so I don't know where it is. :S

About the dip switches, these are some of the configurations:

ALL OFF -> Responds to Sound
ALL OFF but 1, 2, or 3 -> Outputs RED with variable intensity
ALL OFF but 4, 5, or 6 -> Outputs GREEN with variable intensity
ALL OFF but 7, 8, or 9 -> Outputs BLUE with variable intensity

I don't know what the dip #10 does, but it doesn't seem to produce any effect.

Does this sound familiar to you? Is this the way your PAR Cans operate??
Thanks a lot,

Tiago

dipswitch#10 could be the one to set the par can in DMX mode.

LJ_krede.dk wrote:dipswitch#10 could be the one to set the par can in DMX mode.

I would suggest this too. Try to play arround with this settings.
Also try to plug in the DMX cables before you plug in the power connector of the fixture. I remember, I had to play a round a little liste time I setup the lights... But after some unpluging and reconnecting everything works fine

If you do not have the manual perhaps you know the manufacture and product name (or have themprinted on the fixture)? Often you can finde the manual somewhere in the internet

Hello again,

Thank you once more for your help.

I've been playing with the dip switches but haven't found a working combination :/
Could you tell me what kind of combination you use when on DMX mode??

Also, am I doing something wrong while using FreeStyler??

This is what I do:
1. Go to Setup -> Add/Remove Fixtures
2. Choose one from the list and add it
3. Configure the Dip Switches as indicated on the figure
4. Should the PAR Can be reactive right now? Because I change the color, on the color
button, but nothing happens :S

Thank you in advance

you have to unknown parameters which could cause your issue:

1) you are not completely sure your interface sends out DMX
2) You don't know if the par can receive/reacts on DMX

1) you have to rule out the first one to solve issue number 2. I dont know how to use the enttec open interface but describe how you set it up, then other users may see if there is a problem

2) as you described the par can should reacts on dmx IF the interface sends out DMX.. you should not use a LED par can fixure but do as i wrote in an earlier post. then you are more sure that the par can would light if it gets DMX.

on my led par cans i have 12 dipswitched where #10-12 have to be turned off to get the PAR can in DMX mode, and its differ depending on the manufacture.

two things you could do if possible:
1) borrow another fixture to test out your dmx interface
2) get the par can to one with a known functional system to try out the fixture

Did you check your 5 to 3 pin converter for proper connections?
Not using a DMX terminator in this tiny setup should not be a problem.
You say your fixture is changing color when changing dip switches. That tells me the fixture is not in DMX mode but its in standalone mode. Allmost all fixture uses 1 dip switch that enables DMX mode on or of. If DMX mode is on, and no DMX cable is connected, dips 1...9 are address dips and should not change colors anymore. Mostly DIP 10 (and sometimes DIP 9) are DMX mode on/off switches. You should retry maybe. It must be something like that.
Can you post a picture of the fixtures front and back (closeup)? Maybe that tells us something.


Simple test for DMX output. (note that this test only makes sure there is some kind of signal, but not necessarily a good DMX signal)

I have 2 simple ways of testing for you:
1. Use a DMM (Digital MultiMeter) measure the voltage on pins 2 & 3 of the XLR output. Taking the high frequencies of DMX into account and your multimeter probably is'nt fitted to measure that, there is no way of telling what voltage it should show. But it should not be zero. (note: if it is zero, that may be the result of your DMM not capable of measuring the signal).
2. Create a simple DMX tester with really few components. See for a description: http://www.bigclive.com/dmxtest.htm

The LED in the tester MUST lit up. If it does not; you'll know for sure that no DMX signal is coming out the interface.
If it does, you'll know that -some- signal is coming out of the interface. That simple tester does not test if its really DMX. But if it lits up, you may assume its a proper DMX signal for the time being.

Edit:
Just got a great idea: Maybe going to create a software DMX tester, using the build in soundcard (in record mode) as test source. Offcourse there should be some level adapting and most if not all soundcards can't keep up with the speed of DMX, but a simple tester telling you its 'looking a lot like DMX' would be nice. Or is'nt it?
Maybe I will dive into this some rainy day.

Hello guys, thanks a lot for all the help you've been providing me

I can't believe it, but I finally found the manual!! As you said, Dip switch #10 activates DMX Mode.

But now I can't really get it to function correctly :/ I think my Enttec DMX Interface is sending signals
because when I play with the Color chooser, the can starts blinking white light. Maybe now this is a
fixture problem...

Maybe I'll have to create a new fixture profile?? Is this possible? Anyway, I attached two images from
the can's manual. If you could help me with those, it would be great (I'm sorry, it's a RAR)

@remko
Unfortunately for me, I'm on vacation from university... so it will be harder for me to get
the resistors and leds. But that DMX tester is something I will make as soon as possible
About your idea for the sound card DMX testing, that's amazing It would be quite helpful
for everyone and that could be a built-in feature of FreeStyler, definitely, it would make
FreeStyler even more awesome and complete.

@LJ
What brand of DMX Par cans do you use? Are they good? Do they emit strong light? I'm thinking
of buying more PAR Cans, and it would be great to already have feedback on some brands

Well guys, thanks a lot once more, I don't know what I would do without you

Best Regards,
Tiago Costa

What fixture file are you using at the moment for this fixture?
You can ealisy create a fixture file for it using the fixture file creator.
As an example, use the "Kool Light, Par Led 88" fixture. Thats in the list of FS and uses the same DMX channel functionality.
Without editing, it should work with your fixture.

Before using that, check and double check if you configured the DMX start address on the fixture properly.
Example 1: For start address 1, dips 1 and 10 should be on, the rest off. (the fixture now uses DMX channel 1,2,3 and 4)
Example 2: For start address 10, dips 2,4 and 10 should be on, the rest off. (the fixture now uses DMX channel 10,11,12 and 13)

If you have multiple fixtures connected, make sure they don't overlap eachother. So if a fixture is addressed on channel 10, the next may only start at 14 or higher.

Hello remco,

I have only only led par can connected and I configured the dip switches as you said.
All OFF, except number 1 and 10. I also added the fixture that you said, but I still
can't get it to work.

I don't know but there must be something really wrong with me or I can't function with
Freestyler From the moment I add the fixture to the list, shouldn't it become responsive
right away? I mean, I use the color changer for changing the color, but the LED can doesn't
do anything... Should I click any other button in order for the software to send the commands?

Thanks a lot,

Tiago

TiagoCT90 wrote:Should I click any other button in order for the software to send the commands?

You should use the shutter channel to set the intensity to full first.
Maybe the master intensity in FS is closed. Open it.
Check if you added the fixture correctly on starting channel 1 in FS.

Important one:
Monitor what FreeStyler sends out by opening the output monitor screen. (Menu Edit->show output).

Setting the shutter, R, G and B channel to max (255), should show on the output window value 255 on channels 1,2,3 and 4.
The fixture should be bright white steady, or flashing. (That depends on internal electronics - see the manual what shutter values mean what)
Edit: This is really strange: "CH1: Strobe (0~151) RGB dimmer is from bright to dark."
So, normally when a channel is shared for shutter and strobe at the same time, it always works from 0 (dark) to 151 (bright). (Where the '151' may vary)
But this text is either faulty or the values work the other way around. 0 (bright), 151 (dark).
So try setting the shutter channel to 0. Maybe then a light goes on... Feels strange. But the manual states it.
The same goes for the RGB channels. As if one should set them all to 0 to get a white light. I don't believe it, but it is there in the manual. Guess thats faulty.

Hello remco,

You're a boss

Indeed setting all values to 255 worked like a charm. The LED par can is flashing
pure white rapidly. Although, for some reason this is the only color that works.

If I change the color, but still keep the Shutter at 255, the LED Can does not show
any color steady of flashing, nothing. Same if shutter is 0.

Also, changing the speed on the master intensity, does not produce any effect :/

Damn this par can is driving me crazy. Maybe I should have bought branded ones lol

Thanks a lot remco,

Tiago

Hey guys,

I just wanted to tell you all that my problems are solved. Turns out LJ was right...
The problem was the cable itself. Since I'm using Enttec Open DMX, I also had to
buy a 5-to-3 pin XLR adapter. But my DMX PAR64 Cans use PIN 2 and PIN 3 inverted.

So I had to open the cables and remount it correctly.

Everything now works like a charm.

Thanks a lot for all the help you all provided me, I deeply appreciate it

Tiago Costa

Nice one. Good to know.

One advice: Mark your crossed cable REALLY BIG that its crossed (Or better yet: create a small crosser and keep your cables straight). Otherwise, in the future, there will be a day (or 2 or more) were you have the biggest problems.......

Hi!

Advice taken

Thank you.

try turning dipswitch #1 and #10 and then you should be able to have dmx control over them