Support Forum

I have almost everything working 100% electrically, I ran into one snag, I have 20 pars, 2 blacklights, to rotolite pinspots (among other lighting effects)....all fully operational.

My problem child is the ADJ micro galaxian laser effect. It has a wall wart that goes from 120V to 12VDC, well I've tried in dimmer mode and switch mode on my ADJ DP-415 and if I turn the pack to 255, normal operation of the unit, but when I set the slider to 0, it "flashes", I'm seeing around 30VAC on the line which tells me its not a true of switch like a true relay. Any thoughts on how to handle this?

I could swear I've read threads somewhere that says their is a "dummy" switcher to plug in an led par/whatever into a pack and it will act as a relay?? Or some module that can handle this?

Can someone point me in the right direction or a solution?

Thanks all!
Chris

kittmaster wrote:
My problem child is the ADJ micro galaxian laser effect. It has a wall wart that goes from 120V to 12VDC, well I've tried in dimmer mode and switch mode on my ADJ DP-415 and if I turn the pack to 255, normal operation of the unit, but when I set the slider to 0, it "flashes", I'm seeing around 30VAC on the line which tells me its not a true of switch like a true relay. Any thoughts on how to handle this?

Have to checked the Fixture file. Makesure the the default value is set correctly for each function. Sounds like when the value is not really going to '0'

kittmaster wrote: I could swear I've read threads somewhere that says their is a "dummy" switcher to plug in an led par/whatever into a pack and it will act as a relay?? Or some module that can handle this?

Not too sure what you mean here?

What I mean after searching after I posted this, it looks like a "dummy" load is needed since it is acting like an LED fixture:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7 ... Dummy.html

So I guess my problem is there somehow since its not a parcan or not enough load to keep the current under turning on the device.

I ran into this when I first started wiring up the unit, I was measuring 120V on the terminal strip even when the dimmer was "0". When I put my pinspot device on the output, the 120 magically dropped to 0VAC, which I'm assuming is because of the filament creating the needed load, and the device works perfectly 0 to 255.

So I'm guessing in this case, the wall wart for the galaxian is not creating enough of a load and the 30VAC I'm seeing there is enough to turn on the device for short periods of time.

I read on google with others having this issue about adding a "night light" to it (creating a "micro par")....which makes sense. I'll have to give that a whirl and see how it goes.

I have a dedicated 4 channel switch pack that is designed to cut power to four fixtures when the DMX value drops below a certain value. The problem is when it is 'off' its still allows a residual current to pass through to the fixture. Say for example if I connect a strobe, the strobe will be off but the strobe capacitor will continue to charge slowly and the strobe will 'blink' ocassionally. If I connect any kind of intelligent light, the same will happan and the fixture will turn on momentarily on a repeating basis.

So why doe sit do this?

I think the switch pack is designed for conventional fixtures (ie a simple lamp). The residual current keeps the filament in the lamp pre-heated thereby reducing the chance of it blowing when suddenly energised.

So...I went to me local hardware store and bought 4 small flood lights and now have them permanently connected to my switch pack and use them as blinders.

That seems to be the answer, some small incadesent light to keep the circuits "shorted" so it can't recharge......going to Lowes today to pick up some to add in. Didn't realize the strobe would charge up, so I'll it it for all the non part outputs.

Did you hide the lights or do the crowds see them?

Hide them? No. I was pointing them in the face of the crowd and would wait till a great part in song and put them on full power! Sometimes during a build in the song I would wind up the flash rate on the strobe and them hit them with the blinders when the music changed. BOOM! Looks great but wouldn't want to do it too often. Great for fast paced electronic dance music.

I went with the American DJ led dummy, bought 3 of them, solved my mirror ball motor chattering (triac issues), my galaxian issue, and I put one on the strobe light just to be sure. That works perfectly and solves all the issues.

I am getting dinged by my peers that my lighting is old and out of style because they are pars and not leds.....I say screw them...I've never had complaints and I've updated a lot of new things to add to the light show to keep current like movers and lasers.....

I'm very happy with it...and I'm glad you folks were able to help me out....TY once again.

Chris
Aaron-Beach Productions